The Magic of the Outer Isles

Circumnavigating an entire island on foot must feature high on the list for those who have that wander-lust to discover the solitude and beauty of a far-off destination. Walking the white sands of Berneray to the rhythm of the Atlantic tide, makes you forget the hurry and bustle of ferry ports as you slip into an easier pace. Looking out upon a chain of isles rising above the ruffled cobalt blue of the ocean encapsulates the dream quest for a destination out on the very edge of the world. This highlight on a tour of the Western Isles rivaled the climb to a massive and hardly visited chambered burial cairn upon a hill pass. Its location was mystical due to the neighbouring ridge’s resemblance to the profile of a woman: the Cailleach - revered mother goddess of the ancient Celts. Or was the scramble down the steep shoreline in search of a sea arch to then discover two the highlight? The incoming tide focused our appreciation of these stunning formations, the brevity of the encounter, combined with it not being mentioned in guide books, made it the more precious.

These are just three memorable moments, rivaled by a cluster of many more. To recount all would seem excessive and probably deemed the exaggeration of a tour guide. All three places are on the Outer Hebrides, islands that can’t be accessed on a single day trip. Their lesser accessibility ensures they remain beyond the reach of the tens of thousands who swarm to Skye to traipse the well-trodden paths from ever burgeoning car-parks. Skye has some spectacular scenery but has become the victim of over-successful promotion. But the Outer Hebrides lie alluringly on the distant rim of the horizon, too far for most except those who recoil from the concept of bagging an island in a day. These distant fringes of Scotland are for those who value an authentic and unhurried encounter with all that’s pristine and wild. The absence of signs and paths gives the impression of it being somewhat unchartered, appealing to those who yearn to explore. Walking a ridge or clifftop with not another person in sight may seem rare these days. We are fortunate though in Scotland to have many places beyond the reach of the arrows that lead the bulk of mass tourism to the viewpoint for that photo opportunity that so many have snapped before. Having a fairly unique encounter provides an abiding memory, significant to your soul. It’s not something to be paraded on social media, for it seems almost ‘holy’, something to be shared in an intimate moment with a significant other.